Routes and First Ascents
1 - 1952 – French ascent, Terray - Magnone, South East route
2 - 1965 - Supercouloir, West Face, Fonrouge-Comesaña
3 - 1968 – Californianan route, South West, Chouinard-Tompkins
4 - 1972 – English route, South Face.
5 - 1976 – Ragni route, East Face.
6 - 1979 - Goretta or Casarotto route, North Pilar.
7 - 1979 – Afanassief route, North West Face.
8 - 1983 – Czechoslovakian route, West Face.
9 - 1983 - Devils Dihedral, North East Face.
10 - 1984 – Argentine Route, South East Face.
11 - 1984 – Spanish Route, East Face.
12 - 1984 - Kearney – Knight route, North Pilar.
13 - 1984 – Polish route, North East Face.
14 - 1985 - Boris Simoncic, South Face.
15 - 1985 - Chimichurri y tortas fritas, North Pilar.
16 - 1986 - Tehuelche, North face.
17 - 1992 - El Corazón, East Face.
18 - 1995 - Ensueño, North West Face
19 - 1995 - Royal Flush, East Face.
Introduction to Fitz Roy
Mount Fitz Roy is the highest peak of the region, at the Eastern side of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, and is included in “Los Glaciares National Park”, on the Argentine Patagonia, accessible in practice only by that country.
It is the most striking summit of a huge group of impressive and challenging peaks and summits, that in no way envy the Torres del Paine of Chilean Patagonia, but which possesses certain characteristics of its own which make it very interesting. Possibly this mountain, along with many others of the zone, are and will continue being the dream, the maximum destiny of "the conquerors of the useless".
The "Fitz" is part of a granite massif, which includes a mountain range of several smaller needles -satellites of it-, which is somewhat further away from the Patagonian Ice than its neighboring Cerro Torre, for example, allowing, in some way, better weather conditions.
The Fitz Roy owes its name to Robert Fitz Roy, captain of the Beagle, the famous vessel that carried Darwin on his way through South America. This is not what the Tehuelches called it from the immemorial times “El Chaltén” - which in tehuelche language means "steaming mountain" - undergoes this change to the being renamed by the Argentine expert of the Commission of Boundaries Francisco Moreno. Currently the original name, Chaltén, is being reused. However, it is Fitz Roy as you have been engraved in the hearts of countless climbers who have dreamed it.
Recommended Climbing Season
November to March